I thought I'd ask a couple of web-based foodie professionals what they thought about the forthcoming Michelin stars and who'd win what .... so here we go.
I think that David Everitt Matthias deserves to be bumped up to three. Despite some whining about Ramsay spreading himself too thin, he still has a team of excellent chefs. Marcus Wareing deserves a second star at Petrus, although I wonder what that means if anything for the Savoy Grill.I loved the food at Arbutus but am not convinced that it is of Michelin star quality. Then again, it's a bit too high brow for a bib-gourmand. Nonetheless, if it does get a star then I would have thought Galvin Bistro Deluxe deserves one as well. Their styles are similar, the only difference is that Galvin says what it is on the tin.
Speaking of Galvin, Galvin at Windows has the drama and food quality to get a star. It wouldn't surprise me if it got two next year.
I would have thought that Bacchus opened too late for any sort of recognition this year, but I wonder whether it will get a bib gourmand next?
Gaby Huddart, editor of the Squaremeal Guides and squaremeal.co.uk
Le Champignon Sauvage certainly deserves 3 stars - David Everitt-Matthias is serving some of the most technically accomplished, innovative food in the UK at the moment and the quality has noticeably gone up several notches in the past 2-3 years. I would also love to see Le Gavroche win its third star again. The consistency achieved by the restaurant is extraordinary and Michel Roux Jnr is every bit as dedicated and accomplished as his father was. What's interesting is how he continues to gently innovate but never does anything too radical to leave his huge fanbase behind. We always get fantastic reader comments about it - loads of them and universally praising it. Similarly, The Square gets fantastic comments from our readers and again I think Philip Howard is pushing his cooking noticeably further of late. What's great about Phil is that he remains totally dedicated to his kitchen and his craft and his passion is very evident in every dish that comes out of his kitchen. It may not quite clinch its third star this year, but I don't think it's too far off if Phil continues what he's doing. The Vineyard at Stockcross - I'll be amazed if it doesn't get its second star. It was a rising star last year in the Michelin guide and John Campbell hasn't taken his foot off the accelerator for one second, so I can't see any reason he won't get it. Whatley Manor - I was blown away by the food there last year and think Martin Burge is an incredibly precise, thoughtful chef - it would be nice to see it made a rising two star restaurant. Possible one stars - The Ritz - I enjoyed one of my best, most technically accomplished meals of the year at The Ritz last year - I think it'll be a scandal if it doesn't get one! L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Arbutus and Galvin at Windows - all good calls by Kitchen Rat.
Just to clarify my point above, I don't reckon Arbutus will get a star for the same reason Galvin Bistro Deluxe won't: neither is sufficiently refined to earn a star, but that doesn't stop the food at both being fantastic.
Thanks for your comment Silverbrow. As for Arbutus and Galvin Bistro Deluxe I think it's a tough call for the Michelin inspectors for exactly the reasons you point out. It will be interesting to see where they place these two restaurants.
I do think that Galvin Bistrot deserve their first star. As the mentioned of them not being enough "refined", we all observed that the Michelin Guide has opened its doors to more down-t-earth place as gastro-pubs for example. Galvin has been extremely consistant since opening in terms of food, quality, service, atmosphere and prices and as being a faithful customer to Galvin, it is packed all the time still. I believe this is what the Michelin is looking for, am I wrong???
Thanks for the comment and I agree that the more relaxed approach, such as gastro pubs is being recognised by the inspectors. I guess tomorrow we will see whether Michelin continues to recognise a more casual-dining approach.... I mean informal dining is much more in fashion these days just as wearing a shirt without a tie is.
So it looks like we were right and wrong. RHR held onto its 3 stars, Petrus has got its 2nd and La Noisette its first. That takes Ramsay's tally to 10, which is pretty impressive.
I find it strange that Galvin at Windows only got an espoir whereas Arbutus got a star. Also strange that Anthony's has nothing.
i have read your comments on le champignon sauvage deserving three stars next year and was very surprised.Before moving to london i was a cheltenham local. on the occasion that we did eat there i was extremely dissapointed. we went in for lunch on a tuesday and the retaurant was empty, yet the food although being technically sound, came to the table luke-warm for both starters and mains. I know that every chef has a bad days, but for two starred establishments this was unacceptable. I will never eat there again aand have eaten at one star establishments with better results.
Many thanks Sean for your comments - I guess every restaurant can have a bad service and I have to say that I very rarely hear criticisms of LCS. That doesn't mean that you couldn't have had a bad experience, I'm sure you did... In the end, regardless of all our deliberations, LCS wasn't awarded a third Michelin star, but I'm sure it will at some point.
I have only eaten once at Champignon Sauvage and what a massive disappointment. The ONLY place to eat and get consistently fantastic food (the best I have ever eaten and I lived for years in London and did the rounds of all the big names) is Lumiere which is forever overlooked and I cannot understand. The chef, Geoff Chapman is a genius of flavours and his wife, Lin, front of house, is charm itself. Why Is They Robbed!!
I never ceased to be amazed how the michelin star thing is really biased towards London. I live in West Sussex and eat regularly at a Restaurant called Cassons...just outside of Chichester and my God, do they cook up a storm. Viv, the Chef used to own, in fact founded 36 on the Quay at Emsworth, then sold it and moved to France and opened a Restaurant there which received accolade after accolade. Then apparently after some family problems, came back to this area and has opened up Cassons. The food is awe inspring. Finest ingredients cooked witih flair and imagination and really just so Good that it is almost beyond belief.
I really think that the Guide should look more closely at what is happening in little corners.
worth a visit...they have a website
www.cassonsrestaurant.co.uk
thanks
Clare