To the readers of this blog, who are no doubt well-worn travellers, the prospect of an aeroplane seat that reclines to a fully vertical position would be met with a nonchalant shrug of the shoulders, a la Francais. But to this frequenter of cattle class, where you're more likely to be assaulted at 6am with talk of scratch card requests and premium vodka, the prospect of a business class flight was reason enough to travel to Hong Kong with the Intercontinental Hotel Group to look at its developments in the Asia Pacific region.
We arrive in Hong Kong in the early afternoon (8 hours ahead here) after a rather delicious and gastronomically satisfying 12-hour flight. Stepping off the plane we are greeted with a gush of hot and humid air. Feeling a little shell-shocked despite the reclining seats, we get into the awaiting vehicle and make our way across the city to the Kowloon Bay side of Hong Kong. Hong Kong is situated in a hilly region, with a large expanse of calm water that divides Hong Kong Bay from the Kowloon Bay side. The architecture on the way into the city is function over fashion, with towering white and pink concrete blocks of legoland uniformity- put it this way, whichever architect got the contracts for residential apartments here must be an obscenely wealthy man by now.
As we arrive at the hotel around 15 members of the Intercontinental Hong Kong's entourage are there to welcome us, ostensibly in an attempt to divert our attention from the tired looking protesters seated on the floor with white and red banners outside the hotel's rather grand entrance ( I jest it was a nice gesture to honour us with such a welcome). According to the concierge staff, the protestors are not protesting anything that the hotel itself had done, but rather the fact that the contractor had not paid the sub-contractor for work done in the hotel (although not being a connaisseur of Chinese characters, I cannot testify to this). So instead of using the grand entrance, via the ornate fountain and red carpet, we are ushered in through the neighbouring shopping centre, annexed to the hotel. Which feels a bit of a bizarre way to enter a world famous five-star hotel to say the least.
The hotel itself is breathtaking with the lounge's glass back wall offering a money-can't-buy view over Hong Kong Bay. The water itself is representative of where old Hong Kong meets new, peopled with both tiny fishing boats, and a 'junk ship' with huge red sails that was built by an 80-year-old man, alongside the more modern boats. The building in the centre of the view on the opposite side is reminiscent of the Chrysler Building in New York, except it is surrounded by towering blockades that are topped by neon electronic branded signs, Hitachi, Samsung and Chinamobile to name a few. There is a distinctly Asian feel reflected in the hotel's design which follows the principles of Feng Shui. The fountain in the front of the hotel represents a pearl, which is supposed to attract the nine dragons of Hong Kong legend (Kowloon translates as nine dragons in English) through the hotel's doors- all glass for ease of access. The reception desk is a huge oval in the centre at the front of the hotel, designed to collect the wealth that the dragons deposit as they fly through the building, with the glass wall at the back of the hotel allowing them to leave and bathe in the bay. It becomes clear quite quickly that legend and superstition still form a huge part of Hong Kong culture, with symbols of luck also embossed on the place mats in the restaurant (they're also made from jade and are locked away each evening in a vault).
The evening brings the world's largest permanent light show, as the buildings are lit up in time to a pulsating majesterial music, complete with lazers that dart across the bay. We are then treated to a dinner in one of the hotel's five restaurants; they comprise the Japanese concept Nobu, (who incidentally we just miss as he left an hour before we arrived), Alain Ducasse's Spoon, Yan Toh Heen Cantonese reestaurant, the lobby bar and the Steak House. Each of the restaurants has lots of private dining space as this is hugely popular in Hong Kong culture.
We eat (rather bizarrely since we're in Hong Kong) in the steak house. But the service is excellent and the experience quirky. I have certainly never been anywhere that offers thirteen kinds of salt and a knife menu- which features Japanese steel, German, French and Australian style knives. I opt for the rather spiky looking German one- it looks like it will do the job. The steak melts in the mouth and the wine is heavenly, but the toll of travel begins to take its toll and we make for bed.
Unfortunately the time difference is all too apparent for my body's internal clock, and I am jerked awake at midnight to spend the entire night staring at the ceiling praying for the sandman to take me into his realm. At 5am this morning I am still wide awake, and realise that I probably won't be making the free Tai Chi class on the pool terrace at 6.30. I finally call it a night at 6.40am and open the blinds. My irritation and disbelief is somewhat assuaged by the fantastic view of the bay, and waking up to watch the sun rise over it really is a defining moment in my travel life. Trying not to feel too apprehensive about the packed schedule ahead I take time to enjoy the infinity pool on the third floor, which from the right angle looks as if the water of the pool is melting into that of the bay. It's delicious and awe inspiring. And all I can think about is that I haven't slept.
Today has been both interesting and exhausting. After a guided tour of the hotel, the suites of which are incredible and cost 10,000 pounds a night we make our way in the car to meet chief executive of the hotel group Andy Cosslett, who is coming to Shenzhen to sign a management contract for the first of its boutique brand Hotel Indigo in Asia Pacific. We pick him up and the drive over to the Chinese border is when I am expected to carry out my interview, which is both novel and rather distracting. Still we have a pleasant enough conversation and the transition into China across the border goes more smoothly than we had been told to anticipate. (People have been delayed for three hours in the past).
The InterContinental Hotel in Shenzhen is like a weird, camp Disneyland version of Spain. The front of the hotel is a huge Galleon ship that looms in the distance on our drive over through the streets of Shenzhen (population 20 million). We are greeted by the hotel's Chinese staff dressed in what they take to be Flamenco dresses in the entrance way, and I'm just a tad baffled as to why this country seems to want to emulate everywhere but itself. The interior is lavish, marble floors and bull motifs adorn the walls, and the rooms overlook the theme park which (as you'd expect) houses replications of all the different countries in the world- including China! Well yes I can see why- the Chinese evidently have no idea what their own country is like.
And finally onto this evening, where I witnessed the signing of the management contract- a very formal occasion in China, and the presence of Cosslett here is one of great honour to the hotel. It gives them much "face" as they term it. When Cosslett stands up they play a rather amusing 70s Gameshow music to accompany it, and he grimaces in a bewildered but playful fashion.
And now dear reader at 8pm and 48 hours of no sleep later I bid thee good evening. Room service and a film await...I do hope the ceiling has a nice pattern.
Comments (1)
Do they have a knife equivalent of a sommelier to help you match your choice of knife with your choice of food?
Posted by Andrew | November 21, 2008 12:42 PM
Posted on November 21, 2008 12:42