First judgements on Richard Corrigan's new outlet, on the former site of Chez Nico, 90 Park Lane, attached to Grosvenor House, have been positive.
The Telegraph's critic Jasper Gerard called it "superb, showcasing typically gutsy, gamey Irish cooking. The setting is silvery, sumptuous and evocative of a cruise liner, with astonishingly fine food."
Gerard eats linguini with pecorino and bone marrow in red wine. "The bone marrow, covered in parmesan, is a chunky delight. Lovely though it is, it is soon rendered ordinary by the main course: grouse on croute with ceps. It has no top, so you can see the red, succulent stripes of game within, all encased in the finest pastry. It's one of the best dishes I've has all year and, like so much here, is redolent of the season."
According to Fay Maschler, writing in the Evening Standard, a treat was the "purity of steamed sole fillet with ceps served decorously with just the cooking juices. Corrigan talks of the special window of opportunity at the end of the wild duck season with mallards coincide with the first of the Seville oranges."
Corrigan to close Lindsay House and move to Mayfair >>
Michelin-starred Richard Corrigan opens Mayfair restaurant >>
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