Russians open London steakhouse

Anyone who's eaten out in Moscow won't be hurrying to a new steakhouse concept from the Russian city very soon. A new Michelin guide to the Russian capital would be scratching around, that's for sure.

However, despite a slashing in half of the Moscow stock exchange, and the beginning of the desertion of Russians from our shores in the past month, a few are brave enough to come the other way. Last night they stood up for entrepreneurship at Goodman, a Russian steakhouse brand in London's west end. After building up seven of them in Moscow (the version in the Europeisky trade centre is pictured), with one due to open in Kiev, this is the latest offering in the UK.

The owners have come over all Chicago on us at Goodman, however, posting black and white photographs on the walls, offering booth seating, and a leather, brown wood interior mix. Then there's the name, which comes from US jazz singer Benny Goodman. Charlie Parker he never was, and the twee edge it adds might well put people off in the same way that David Hasselhof's singing seemed great to the Germans, but no one else.

However, in the case of the meat, the translation works. The slabs of meat are Australian or American, strip, fillet or ribeye were outstanding, soft and thick with delicious, rich flavour and oozing juice. They've found a chef who's used to big, hearty portions, coming from the Monk's Grill in British Columbia, Canada. Once you've served hungry post-ski folk you can manage  to fill any stray punter, surely.

First courses were not quite so impressive, slimy steak tartare - no spice, no egg, no slight bite as you chew through the meat, but a general slipperyness as it descended your throat. Before that a plate of pickled vegetables had arrived with vodka - the authentic Russian touch that didn't quite fit the rest of the steakhouse branding.

A few things have been lost in translation, but we hope that it survives alongside Claude Bosi's Hibiscus on Maddox Street opposite - they're a different kind of offering, anyway - and let's hope both are around in 12 months' time.