January 2009 Archives

Jamie Oliver takes on EU pork industry

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Jamie helps out pigsLast night's instalment of the Jamie Oliver on Channel 4 showed the pig ejaculation as previously trailed in this blog space for the 'Save Our Bacon' programme.

But it was also a chance for Jamie to put forward a challenging proposition to the British public: spend more on pork products even though you more than likely have less money at the moment.

Porker shoot-off aside, it showed the reality of the pig meat trade, the sow stalls in particular. A kind of equivalent of chicken battery farmed conditions; they were banned in the UK in 1999. In the EU, however, they'll be legal until 2013, which could make our industry sadly unable to compete in future - it's in the balance rather.

The programme featured Caroline Mortimer, who, as Caterersearch exclusively revealed last year, is the new head of catering at the Met Police. She vowed to use only British Pork on canteen menus as soon as was logistically possible. 

Jamie took on Hugh's F-W's animal welfare mantle with aplomb in this latest edition of Channel 4's 'Great British Food Fight', and has hopefully convinced a fair number to switch to more humanely reared, British pork.

Jamie Oliver to launch DIY food stores across the UK >>

Oliver to open first Jamie's Italian in London >>

Gordon Ramsay's new Nightmare scenario

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Gordon RamsayGordon Ramsay is back on TV screens with Kitchen Nightmares tomorrow, but it's a version of the programme with a difference.

For a start, the programme runs over two hours, a bonus for those of you that like seeing people being told off. The top chef looks at two restaurants in that time, a struggling venue in Sheffield and one in Devon.

All seems to be proceeding as normal, when after a few disagreements, the proprietors of each venue take his advice on board. However, then the economic downturn kicks in and both restaurants owners and Gordon have to engage in a significant rethink during filming.

Watch Channel 4 tomorrow at 9pm to see how Gordon is taking on the credit crunch. And you can catch Gordon too in a new book out in March and filming for more Nightmares in LA - he's on a real publicity blitz in the New Year.

Ramsay Nightmare restaurant Love's Fish closes >>

Gordon Ramsay Kitchen Nightmares restaurant badly damaged >>

 

Davos enjoys top wines but downgrades fizz

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Chateau Petrus has almost run out at the WEFYou might think that the World Economics Forum in Davos would have plenty of things to keep them in sombre mood - such as an international recession and near collapse of the banking system - but news has reached us that some are still partying like it's 1999.

Dignitaries and political big-wigs have practically polished off the Steigenberger Grandhotel Belvedere hotel's annual supply of 1971 Chateau Petrus premier cru, which sells for $1,700 a bottle according to gm Ernst Wyrsch.

However it seems some attendees are more sensitive to the economic plight affecting the rest of us.

We hear reports of banks down-grading from Krug and Dom Perignon at receptions to Laurent Perrier or white wine. And luxury foods such as caviar have found themselves blacklisted for being too ostentatious and sending out the wrong corporate message. You think... 

What's going on at the AA?Since Caterer and Kitchen Rat ran stories on a crisis of identity at the AA, the response has been overwhelming, with chefs, restaurateurs and hoteliers quick to stick the knife in the one time industry icon. Try some of these quotes for size:

"What is frustrating is the inconsistency in the inspections and the demoralising tactics which affect the staff."
Name and address supplied

"It's lost credibility with chefs, it's lost credibility with restaurateurs and it's lost credibility with hoteliers. People are fed up with the hypocrisy of being told 'do this or don't that'. Well, the reason we are a successful business is because we are individual, we don't want to be packaged up with this conglomerate. I think it is the wrong way to go and I think the guide will struggle against accusations that it is doing all of this to turn a big profit."
Michael Caines, executive chef, Gidleigh Park, Devon

"The inspector [at a recent inspection] informed us that he thought the food was one rosette standard and that we would be re examined with a view to taking one rosette away, however we might wish to buy the AA consultancy service in order to make sure we were producing what they were looking for. Neither ourselves or our guests seem to feel that any such change is needed and the reasons given by the inspector are quite contrary to what has gone before, indeed they appeared to be somewhat contrived. We then saw your report in 'Caterer' and it all fell into place. We were being sold the consultancy idea in order to save a rosette."
Christopher Longden MIH, MI

But, amidst all the acrimony, does anyone have anything nice to say about the AA? Does is still do a job in some areas? Or is it the greedy-eyed money making machine many now see it as?

Caterer is hoping to print the best responses to this issue in the coming weeks so, if you have anything nice to say send it to the Rat's secretary Tom.vaughan@rbi.co.uk.

Of course, if you've got something derogatory to say, feel free to send that over instead.

Wine lovers pin hopes on President ObamaNewly elected President Barack Obama is being hailed as the saviour of America. Not only is he being tasked with righting the country's trashed economy and saving the world from global warming, but now wine enthusiasts are also praying for the White House wine cellar to be redeemed.

Under the auspices of tee-totaller 'Dubya', the cellar's stocks had depleted from Thomas Jeffersen's 20,000 cache to a paltry 500 bottles. To make matters worse, those served were, by all accounts, pretty awful - with wines that are described as having enough "presence" to stand up to the 55 minute state meals. No delicate aromas or subtle flavours there then.

It's hoped that the suave and sophisticated Obama, as a lover of fine food and wine, will restore the collection to something of its former glory, although foodies have already been disappointed by the retention of George Bush's white house chef, Christeta Comerford. 

Burns Night celebrations

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Highland BagpipesRobert Burns was a Scottish poet and balladeer who has become one of the country's most celebrated icons. And every year on his birthday on 25 January Scots across the world pay tribute to their national hero with a special feast.

Burns Suppers have been part of Scottish culture for more than 200 years and the basic format for the evening has remained unchanged since its inception, with haggis, Scotch whisky and perhaps a poem or two being the order of the day.

Dinner usually includes a starter of traditional cock-a-leekie soup before the main course of "Haggis wi' bashit neeps an' champit tatties" (haggis with mashed potatoes and swedes), followed by a sweet course of "clootie dumplin" (a pudding prepared in a linen cloth or cloot) or "Typsy Laird" (a Scottish sherry trifle). Afterwards comes the cheese board, served with bannocks (traditional oat-cakes) and tea or coffee.

After dinner a host of toasts and speeches are made including the loyal toast, immortal memory and toast to the lasses.

Whether you like it or not, Michelin still rocks the cheffing world and remains the key barometer for restaurants across the UK.

This year's guide has caused a particular stir after the results leaked out five days early on the internet and they were met with a mixed reaction from the industry.

But what goes on behind closed doors at Michelin? How do the inspectors evaluate who's worth a Bib Gourmand or the rising three-star?

Watch our video interview with editor Derek Bulmer to find out more.

Hearn's words, like a bullet to the heartThe first wave of discomfort spread across the hall of London's Landmark Hotel during the Master Innholders conference, when Grant Hearn glibly suggested that the audience members memorise the number 08457 909090, as "they would be needing it a lot that year"- only to reveal it was the number for the Samaritans.

The room, packed to the rafters with general managers, laughed uncomfortably but shrugged it off as an upstart's attempt to lighten the decidedly blackened mood.

But when the Travelodge boss launched into a tirade on the "mushy middle" sector of the hotel market, joyfully adding that a structural change was coming bringing an increase in polarisation between luxury and budget end hotels, the disgruntled mutterings increased.

However, the sound of bums shifting on conference seats really became audible when Hearn unashamedly announced that he was "more of a retailer than a hotelier" and that he was relishing the opportunity to swoop in on the "many businesses in the room about to go under."

Not exactly the way to energise and motivate a room full of nervous general managers.

Thanks to his efforts, Kitchen Rat imagines Hearn's ears were burning last night, as his name was slaked across the coals at each of the tables during the evening dinner reception...

Would you like your knife back, Mr Hearn?
 

Barack Obama inauguration parties

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Barack ObamaBarack Obama will be inaugurated as America's 44th president today and it's not just the folks across the pond who'll be celebrating the beginning of a new era in world politics.

Over here in the UK the many US-themed restaurants and bars will be putting on special events too so make sure you head down to one of them to mark the occasion.

Momma Cheri's Soul Food Shack in Brighton is inviting people to pop in throughout the day and there'll be an open microphone giving everybody the chance to say what's on their mind. And for all those who have to work today, there'll be another party on Sunday (25 January). 

London's Chicago Rib Shack in Knightsbridge is also putting on a special party with live music, party food, free beer and footage of the inauguration ceremony taking place in Washington DC.  

TGI Fridays across London will be celebrating Obama collectively toasting him at 9pm with special American cocktails at its venues across the city. They will also be screening all the inauguration celebrations.

Arguably the largest party is taking place at the O2 Arena's Indigo, with the 20109 Change event featuring celebrity performances as well as a live feed to Washington DC to see the inauguration of Obama as it happens.

Finally Madame Tussauds is unveiling a new statue of Barack Obama in a detailed recreation of the Oval Office. Admission is free to all US citizens with valid ID today, and footage of the inauguration ceremony will be shown live in the World Leaders zone.

Whatley Manor chefs celebrate two stars with a curry In contrast to the fine dining, gastronocially exotic food they create, we hear that chefs who were awarded Michelin stars at the weekend celebrated in a variety of decidedly more down to earth ways.

Newly honoured with two Michelin stars, the brigade at Whatley Manor were taken out by head chef Martin Burge for a celebratory blow out dinner at a local curry house on Sunday night to celebrate their new accolade.

Meanwhile, Alan Murchison, chef/patron of L'Ortolan in Reading and La Becasse in Ludlow was up in Scotland filming the Great British Menu when he heard the news of his star.

His grand celebration consisted of quaffing a can of diet coke alone in his hotel bedroom.

 

 

Alain DucasseBritain and Ireland remains with just three, three-Michelin-starred restaurants to its name (Gordon Ramsay in London and the Waterside Inn and the Fat Duck in Bray), but there are more on the horizon according to the Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2009.

For the first time since it went public on naming "rising stars", Michelin has dared to hint that we could be in store for another three star in the not too distant future. And who will it be? Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester.
 
While it would be great to see another Brit scoop this, the most desired culinary title in the land, it's still positive stuff. What is great news, though, is that four restaurants have been promoted to two stars - the lovely Claude Bosi at Hibiscus, who relocated his restaurant from Ludlow (where it held two stars) to London in 2007 only to be demoted in the 2008 guide, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, the very talented Martin Burge at Whatley Manor in Malmesbury, Wiltshire and golden boy Alain Ducasse.
 
Good news also comes in the form of rising two stars for Tom Aikens at his eponymous restaurant in Chelsea, Brett Graham at the Ledbury and Nathan Outlaw at the Marina Villa Hotel in Fowey, tipped for two last year but clearly still on Michelin's radar.
 
Congratulations to all the new stars. Caterersearch.com looks forward to catching up with many of you this week!

Gordon Ramsay: Less celebrity more chef?

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Gordon RamsayIt seems no-one is escaping the effects of the credit crunch.

Gordon Ramsay has sacked his long-standing public relations guru Gary Farrow, after five years working together.

The move comes just weeks after Ramsay was accused of having an extra martial affair, but Chris Hutcheson, chief executive of Gordon Ramsay Holdings, called the decision a "rationalisation".

He told trade mag PR Week that Ramsay would not look for a new publicist and that the company would continue to use Sauce Communications for its UK PR.

Farrow, chief executive of The Corporation, did not comment.

No one in the industry is going to escape the effects of the looming recession and Kitchen Rat hopes Ramsay will now focus more on the restaurant business than showbiz (although being quoted in Marie Claire probably isn't the best start).

AA rosettes good news ahead of Michelin?

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MichelinAlthough Kate Winslet's acceptance speech at the Golden Globes this weekend may have been a bit "luvee" for some, it's widely seen as a good sign ahead of the Oscars.

Kitchen Rat therefore got to thinking if parallels could be drawn with the AA rosettes, released today, and next week's Michelin stars for Great Britain and Ireland.

Four AA rosettes are surely good news then for Michael Wignall at The Latymer at Pennyhill Park hotel in Surrey, who is no doubt keen to win back at least one Michelin star having held one at the Devonshire Arms in Yorkshire previously (see our Menuwatch for more).

By the same measure, it's not promising for Alan Yau's Hakkasan in London, which was demoted from three AA-Rosettes to two (as was Fredrick's hotel in Maidenhead, Berkshire).

In fact a bad month ahead for the Yaus in general perhaps, with news that Aaya - see our Menuwatch - by Gary Yau has gone into administration despite impressing the critics at launch less than a year ago.

On this note, Michelin starred chef Michael Caines observation that Michelin will be keen not to recognise restaurants that may go under in the UK recession seems sage.

Don't forget to read our report on the AA in today's Caterer where we ask if the organisation is awash after former hotel inspector Jayne Wyatt won her unfair dismissal case last year.

 

2008: AA rosette rated restaurants>>

Pennyhill Park's Latymer wins Good Food Guide restaurant award>>

Michelin stars 2009 - predictions>>

Michelin stars can be a double-edged sword>>

New head chef at the Dorchester's Grill>>

Here's a carrot, and take note because it might be one of the last you seeThat's the threat according to some British farmers after the latest EU ruling.

Officials in Brussels have banned 22 key pesticides that are used in arable crop growth, including pyrethroid insecticides and pendimethalin herbicides.

They sound a mouthful, and too obscure to matter, but apparently banning these chemicals will significantly raise food prices, and destroy farming communities.

Root vegetables, particularly carrots and parsnips will be particularly affected, say farmers.

And according to Conservative MEP Robert Sturdy, "Banning products that are safe when used correctly will add to already volatile food prices and food shortages."

Using pesticides near schools, parks or hospitals will be forbidden or severely restricted and most aerial crop spraying will be banned.

Well, it doesn't sound like a bad idea to us. And didn't farming communities exist before these 20th century chemicals?

We must work together with the farmers >>

EU directive wins some supporters >>

I'm gonna give you to the count of ten

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That warm and fuzzy holiday feeling

There's cutting it fine, and then there's taking the concept to a whole new no-skin-remaining-on-your-teeth-level. 

Or so the poor sods who were staying at the Springfield Hotel in Tyneside recently discovered the hard way.

Customers were given just 20 minutes to pack up and get out, after the hotel was closed with immediate effect.

The hotel, which was part of Legacy Hotels, went into receivership in October and handed over management of the hotel to GVA Grimley, acting on behalf of Lloyds TSB Bank.

Some poor blighters at the Springfield Hotel were even escorted to their rooms on Monday morning by security staff who watched them pack every last item (imagine the horror of those who had brought less salubrious items along with them for the weekend!)

Thirty hotel workers were also told they had lost their jobs as operator Legacy Hotels ceased to be in charge from midnight on Sunday.

Andy Townsend, chief executive of Legacy Hotels said: "It is a grave disappointment that this situation has occurred and I am led to believe that Licensing Solutions are working with everybody concerned to find a speedy conclusion to this situation."

Kitchen Rat may be wrong, but of all things that could be improved, being "speedy" wasn't really at the top of the list...

Jamie has his very own Rebecca Loos moment

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Fancy some pork scratchings?Our favourite twizzler killer Jamie Oliver has been involved in the more proactive side of the food chain as TV screens will soon reveal.

The celebrity chef has been filming a documentary on the British pork industry as part of the new Channel 4 Great British Food Fight season.

And at one point, because Jamie is looking into all aspects of the pig cycle, he's required to, erm, encourage a boar to make other boars, something that's done artificially in pig land.

"If you watch it then you'll see how it fits in," says a spokesperson clearly intending no pun. "His focus is on the reality of pigs' life."

"He takes in the artificial insemination, in the birth, in how they die."

It all brings back best-forgotten memories of Rebecca Loos performing the very same act on channel Five's reality TV show The Farm.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall calls on industry to switch to free-range poultry >>

Jamie Oliver to launch new high street restaurant group >>

New head chef at the Dorchester's Grill

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Brian Hughson and Aiden ByrneWord has reached Kitchen Rat that the Dorchester has appointed a replacement for Aiden Byrne, the former head chef of the hotel's Grill restaurant, who has left to run his own pub in Cheshire.

Fellow scouser Brian Hughson, former head chef of Gary Rhodes' Michelin-starred Rhodes W1 Restaurant at the Cumberland hotel, has taken over the reins.  

Byrne, who announced his departure last year after obtaining the leasehold on the Church Green Pub in Lymm, Cheshire, was set to leave the Dorchester at the end of January. But as Hughson already started his new role in December, Byrne was set free early and is now fully concentrating on getting things off the ground at his own venture.

According to Byrne the Dorchester is "shooting for Michelin stars" so hopes will be high for Hughson to deliver in the 2010 guide. Well, at least he's got some time.

Aiden Byrne to leave the Dorchester 

Interview with Gary Rhodes and Brian Hughson on winning a Michelin star 

Update: Michelin 2009: The predictions begin

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MichelinWith just over a week to go until the 2009 Michelin guide for Great Britain and Ireland is released, rumours are rife about who will and who won't be getting stars this year.

Kitchen Rat spoke to some of the culinary wizards who have gained stars themselves in the past about who they think deserves to win this year.

After last year's relatively poor crop of awards, hopes are high that there'll be at least a few two stars handed out this year. Restaurants including L'Autre Pied, Nathan Outlaw, Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley and Claude and Claire Bosi's Hibiscus are getting the top votes from their peers but the consensus among the industry seems that 2009 will be yet another year where the UK's number of three-starred restaurants will remain unchanged.

Here's what our top chefs had to say:

Observer's Food Critic Jay Rayner bares all

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Jay Rayner after his waxThe Observer's food critic Jay Rayner undertook a bit of career diversification in this week's magazine, writing a feature about his experiences at the male grooming parlour, London's The Refinery.

Taking with him his foodie, nay gourmande, principles, the valiant Rayner went for a full Galaxy wax - even more than the oft winced at back, sack and crack and lived to tell the tale.

If you've got a spare minute or two it's well worth a read. Ouch  http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/jan/11/male-body-waxing

Beware Cadbury's Dairy Milk contains milk

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Cadbury's warning states the obviousIn a classic example of the bleeding obvious, Cadbury's has placed warnings on its Dairy Milk chocolate bars informing customers of the staggering fact that Dairy Milk actually contains milk.

Before you fall off your chair in surprise, you might've thought a few folks would have cottoned onto this earth-shattering piece of news by the fact the bar has not only the word 'dairy' - a relatively obscure clue - but also 'milk' in its title. Nor does it appear that the Cadbury's logo of a glass and a half of milk being poured into the chocolate bar was enough.  

On the Whole nut bar, the warning states contains nuts & milk - Shock! Horror!

According to the company, the warning is to comply with legal requirements. Surely, the clue, as they say, is in the title.

New tourism minister Barbara FollettNew tourism minister Barbara Follett is to be interviewed by Caterer, and we are inviting comment from you.

If you have a question for Mrs Follett, then please feel free to enter it in the comment space below.

It could be to do with the amount of money allocated to the tourism industry. Perhaps you feel that it could be better directed, or that insufficient is given over to promoting Britain abroad.

Or maybe you feel there that Mrs Follett will find it hard to improve on the work of her predecessor - how can she keep up the high standards set?

Perhaps you would like to ask Mrs Follett exactly how much time will be devoted to tourism, as opposed to other aspects of her role - culture and the creative industries - for which she is also a minister.

Or you may have reservations about whether the most will be made of the Olympics in 2012.

In summary, we'd like you send us questions, however wide-ranging, sycophantic or critical, and we'll put them to Mrs Follett. This is your chance to have a say - so make the most of it.

Barbara Follett becomes new tourism minister >>

The Government should show industry support, says Good Hotel Guide >>

Rodrigues' comments produce horror stories

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John Cleese in Fawlty Towers is a prime example of what not to doVisitBritain's chairman's comments yesterday slamming the state of Britain's grumpy service culture have produced a torrent of horror stories in the press today. For example the Independent's Hotels from Hell piece today.

Christopher Rodrigues criticised British hospitality workers' grumpiness, adding that this would only make the prospect of job losses in the industry worse.

gaston lenotre celebrated his 80th birthday in Paris with a ten metre high cakeIt's not often the passing of a chef is mourned by the country's president, but French patisserie legend Gaston Lenotre's death yesterday at the age of 88 was commented on by the country's premier Nicholas Sarkozy.

He said: "He succeeded, with his talent and his creativity, his rigour and his high standards, in raising patisserie to the rank of an art,"

Widely recognised as one of France's best ever pastry chefs, Lenotre was instrumental in the devolpment of patisserie as an art, using less flour and sugar and more creams, mousses and fruit flavours.

Paul Bocuse said the patisserie chef was the Christian Dior of the culinary world. 

The AA: All Awash?

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What's going on at the AA?As readers of next week's Caterer will see, all is not rosy at the AA. After the company lost an unfair dismissal claim to former hotel inspector Jayne Wyatt in December, an AA line manager is now at the receiving end of a defamation of character case resulting from Wyatt's victory.

And with the company taking more and more money from training and consultancy since its private equity takeover by CVC and Permira in 2004, the integrity of a one-time industry rock is now in serious jeopardy.

What the Rat wants to know is, have the industry felt the impact of a half decade of radical change from the AA? Are the inspections still up to scratch? Are they better? Are they worse? Are inspectors now prettier? Do they drive better cars? Do they know less? Any take you have, sling it over to one of the Rat's secretaries: tom.vaughan@rbi.co.uk

Christopher Rodrigues warns grumpy and bad service will not be toleratedChristopher Rodrigues, the chairman of VisitBritain, has spoken out against the bad service culture of British workers, warning it could harm the hospitality industry even further than necessary in this difficult economic period.

The government's tourism boss warned in The Independent newspaper today that shoddy service and high prices were putting tourists off from visiting the UK. He added that 50,000 industry jobs could be lost during the recession and that providing good service and high standards were key to businesses' survival.

The criticism follows former tourism minister Margaret Hodge's claim last year that UK hotels were expensive and had issues over quality.

What do you think? Are the criticisms fair or should the tourist board concentrate on promoting the best of the industry?

Let us know

 

Mama Shelter hotel in ParisForget the January blues for a minute - here's a re-creation of that world we once knew back in the days of rising profits, high room uptake and smiles all around.

Yes the luxury consumption era, so dated for just being three months old, is back with a brief flicker in the form of a new Paris hotel, Mama Shelter.

As you can see from the pic next door, Philippe Starck has recreated his very own wacky minimalism, this time for the centre of Paris Saint Blaise area. And, bizarrely, he has the backing of resort company Club Med  too.

There are 172 rooms with iMacs, TV, Internet, DVD players, Skype and free wireless Internet access. Remember them?

If people out there are willing to pay €189 a night then that's just great, but Kitchen Rat wonders whether the hordes will be descending on this new place over the course of the coming 12 months.

Who's got the look? >>

 

Simon-Elliott-and-Andrea-WalwynStart-up caterer-cum-retailer Gold & Brown has started the year with reason for cheer (sorry), netting new business worth more than £1.5m.

Having revealed the inspiration for the company name to Kitchen Rat in November, the caterer is to launch at three new sites in 2009, taking its locations to a grand total of five since being established by Simon Elliot and Andrea Walwyn in April 2008. Not bad going given all the doom and gloom abound at the moment.

Gold & Brown is being somewhat coy about where the new sites are but did reveal that one of them is at an arts centre in the North-east, the 2nd is at a Horticultural venue on the south side of Harrogate (!) and the 3rd is a business and industry site in Rutland.

Taking on these new sites and the company's exisiting oulets at The Academy Health Club and Spa in Harrogate and Holden Wood in Lancashire is Helen Tesseyman.

Tesseyman joins as executive business manager from the Michelin-starred Devonshire Arms hotel at Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire.

Gold & Brown one of the winners at Caterersearch web awards>>

Gold & Brown online store>>

Contract catering round-up>>

 

St John restaurantLondon restaurant St John is to launch a third outlet in the capital later this year, Kitchen Rat has learnt.

Chef patron Fergus Henderson and business partner Trevor Gulliver's restaurant in Smithfield first opened in 1994 and has developed into one of London's most recognised establishments, with Henderson's nose-to-tail British fare proving a major hit with foodies. A sister restaurant, the more casual St John Bread and Wine, followed in Spitalfields in 2003 quickly emulating the original's success.

Now the duo is set to launch a third site in the West End, just off Leicester Square, bringing Henderson's calf's brain, squirrel hearts and deep-fried tripe to a much wider audience.

While the team remains tight-lipped about the new outlet, Kitchen Rat understands it is likely to launch in the second half of the year.

Fergus Henderson's trotters

Record Price for Tuna

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tuna is a staple ingredient for sushi barsIt may be a global credit crunch but in Japan two sushi bar owners paid a record £70,000 for a rare tuna yesterday. The Japanese Bluefin, which sold at auction for ten times the going rate, weighed 128kg and was split between the two restaurateurs.

It was the most expensive fish (for its weight) sold at Tokyo's Tsukiji market in nearly a decade. Fishing restrictions on locally caught tuna to try and ensure the bluefin's survival have seen domestic fish become highly prized.

Ibis and Travelodge slammed in Which? survey

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Ibis hotel on Charles Street, ManchesterWe visited one of London's less salubrious hotels in our Dec 11th issue last year. Our feature 'The Long Road to 2012' looked at how ready the capital was to receive visitors in four years' time - and the answer was in the case of one play to stay overnight, not at all.

But it seems we're not alone in criticising cheaper hotels. While the branded budget market came out well in our feature by comparison with the less well-known 'Olympic House hotel' others haven't recently. Both Ibis and Travelodge have had problems in some outlets, according to a recent edition of Which? Holiday magazine.

Mould was found on a mattress in an Ibis property on Charles Street, while Travelodge had some dirty bathrooms, said the magazine. Both say they have taken steps to ensure cleanliness to the correct standards.

Comfort Inns and Jurys Inns, meanwhile, performed well in the survey. Let's hope all are up to scratch over the next few years.

Budget hotels in the UK 2008 - Industry data>>

The value of budget hotels>>

Michael Vaughan lifts the Ashes urn in 2005 - happy daysMichael Vaughan, the former England cricket captain, is believed to be at the centre of a power struggle between current captain Kevin Pietersen and team coach Peter Moores but he is not letting that get in the way of business.

Vaughan, who plays for Yorkshire, has been appointed as head of corporate leisure for local property developer the Skelwith Group, which is currently overseeing more £130m worth of hotel development.

The cricketer is already an investor in the £100m buy-to-let Flaxby Country Club resort near Harrogate and has now become a more formal part of the business. He promised to use his "contacts and experience" to help the company grow.

But Vaughan - whose proudest moment was lifting the Ashes in 2005 - insisted that he was still focused on getting back in the England side.

"I'm still committed to get back into the England team and have another crack at Australia next year but this is a fantastic opportunity for the future," he said.

"I've been involved with the Skelwith Group for over six months and am very excited to formalise my relationship with them." 

Let's hope he will knock them for six and not get caught up on a sticky wicket.

What diners do not want

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Diners

The secret to running a successful restaurant is to understand what customers want - or do not want - and the Good Food Guide has identified diners' ultimate pet hates.

Here's the top 10:

Restaurants being unclear about their charges. There's nothing worse than finding out that basket of bread you gobbled down wasn't for free.

Over-attentive waiting staff. Good service is the most important thing next to the food but there are limits and waiters frequently topping up wine glasses or interrupting conversations can really ruin a meal.

Asking diners to add a tip when a service charge has already been added. A big no no - nobody likes to be charged twice.

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