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As is AA Gill's wont, he'll do anything except get down to the business of reviewing. This week in his procrastinatory preamble before the main event, he tells us all how bad he is at championing causes before (Westminster politician-like) seemlessly taking credit for the government's recent announcemnt of changes to the law on tipping.

Un-Westminster-politician like, though, he does admit and then revel in the smugness and sanctimony of his words, and thus we are endeared to him once more, before he then slams Ba Shan in Soho into oblivion with a no star review.

A good read...and obviously a cause I identify with, having also been at the forefront of campaigining for waitresses' rights - in my own inconspicuous, back seat way..

Oh dear (or och aye as the Rat is led to believe our learned friends in Scotland are prone to utter).

Poor old Richard Bath, the food critic at the Scotland on Sunday newspaper, has got himself into a bit of a muddle with his latest review, of the Malmaison in Leith, Edinburgh.

"With the possible exception of the twee little Berkshire village of Bray, where Heston Blumenthal and Raymond Blanc jostle for elbow-room next to the Thames, nowhere outside of London has as great a concentration of restaurants as Leith," the piece begins.

Now, correct us if we're wrong, but Raymond hasn't got a presence down in Bray, although the Roux family runs the Waterside Inn down there. These French chefs eh? All the same...

Bath then goes on to complain that "there seemed to be no woodcock" in his companion's Truffled Scotch Woodcock.

More eminent foodies that the Rat have got in touch to point out that Scotch Woodcock is in fact soft scrambled Eggs on toasted brioche with anchovies, truffle and capers.

Back to school Richard...

Chef proprietor Malcolm John has been winning fans, both large and small, for his latest eaterie Le Cassoulet in London's unloved commuter suburb Croydon.

The restaurant critics of the national press have lavished praise but it's also closer to home (and the ground) that the eaterie has really impressed with none other than local hero and Two Ronnies star Ronnie Corbett a regular at the outfit.

No confirmation if Corbett issues monologues from his chair when it becomes time to place an order, or even if he requests an extra large cushion to act as a booster at the table but John isn't complaining.

A celebrity endorsement is a celebrity endorsement even if your regular doesn't have the largest of appetites.

So it's goodnight from me, and it's goodnight from him.

Malcolm John's Le Cassoulet could be the perfect neighbourhood restaurant>>

Terry Durack at the Independent finds Malcolm John's Le Cassoulet has all the ingredients to be the perfect neighbourhood restaurant.>>

Mr Particular - self proclaimed country hotel expert - is, well, no where in particular to be found at present.

Following the launch of a book Mr Particular - Telling the Truth about Country House Hotels in 2005 the reviews were rebadged as an online subscription service early this year but have since been removed from their host site.

Has anyone out there heard anything about Jams O'Donnell, which was an anagram of the writer's real name, in particular? Let us know.

Mr Particular relaunches as online service>>