As is AA Gill's wont, he'll do anything except get down to the business of reviewing. This week in his procrastinatory preamble before the main event, he tells us all how bad he is at championing causes before (Westminster politician-like) seemlessly taking credit for the government's recent announcemnt of changes to the law on tipping.
Un-Westminster-politician like, though, he does admit and then revel in the smugness and sanctimony of his words, and thus we are endeared to him once more, before he then slams Ba Shan in Soho into oblivion with a no star review.
A good read...and obviously a cause I identify with, having also been at the forefront of campaigining for waitresses' rights - in my own inconspicuous, back seat way..